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台南市小吃文化研究

吳國泰 黃世祝; 鄉土文化研究所 2003

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  • 題名:
    台南市小吃文化研究
  • 著者: 吳國泰
  • 黃世祝; 鄉土文化研究所
  • 主題: 台南市; 小吃
  • 描述: 台南市自古以來稱之為府城,是台灣最早發展的區域,並以古蹟為數眾多及質量兼具的小吃而聞名全台。本文以台南市的小吃為研究內涵,透過歷年來文獻的記載,按食材種類的不同,整理出台南市小吃的類型,並依此佐以田野調查,了解台南小吃經營者的發展歷程與未來。 所謂小吃,從時間來看,是一般市井小民在正餐之間的食品。從食材來看,它的材料大多使用簡單的就地取材的食材,是台南當地所盛產。從製作方法來看,小吃的具有強大的生命力,它的本身由家庭飲食為起點,逐漸推向社會的。 本研究將台南市小吃分為以下七類:畜肉類、禽肉類、海鮮類、米食類、麵食類、糕餅甜點類、冰點飲料類。台南小吃的食材都是日常生活中常見的,並且在三餐中經常食用的,如:虱目魚、蚵仔、土魠魚、雞、鴨…。其中,虱目魚及蚵仔更是台南的特產。巧妙地運用簡單的食材,透過業者對味道火候的掌握,創造出美味的佳餚。 台南市小吃的發展起源於廟口、人群聚集的地方,如:石精臼等。從社會變遷的角度來看,台南小吃的發展受到都市發展及更新的影響極大,台南市著名的小吃集散地的興起與沒落導源於此,有些仍為一般人所熟知,如:沙卡里巴與民族路夜市,有些已被遺忘,如:東門圓環。 一家家歷史悠久的老店,象徵台南人的飲食習慣形成如今的台南小吃文化。交通便捷、資訊發達的行銷時代,經由各項美食活動的促銷、資訊媒體的曝光,小吃經營型態也以不同面貌呈現。從現代化的角度來看,強調裝潢、提供舒適的用餐環境的西式速食、簡餐,不僅影響市民的選擇,也促使部份小吃業者更注意經營形態的改變。
    Tainan has been given the title Fu-Chieng (The Old Capital) for long, it was the first developed region of Taiwan. Tainan has also earned a reputation for its abundant historical sites and local delicacies/cuisines, later which are rich in both their quantities and qualities. This article is devoted to studying, the “hsiao-chih”, local delicacies,( also known as side dishes or repasts), according to the categories of food materials, to sort out the types of local delicacies, through noted on bibliography over the years, with the help of local field surveys, to understand the history and prospective of owners of local delicacies-diners. From the perspective of daily schedule, the so-called “hsiao-chih” (or siao-tsh), a kind of dish somehow falls between Western snacks and side dishes, is the food for common city folks to enjoy between regular meals. Material-wise, they mostly use the simple, locally-handy materials which are abundant locally in Tainan. From the perspective of making/cooking-methods, local delicacies symbolize and contain the local powerful vivacity their selves. It originated from the daily family diet and dishes, and then was spread gradually to the whole sections of society. This research will divide the Tainan city local delicacies into seven categories: 1.meat, 2.poultry, 3.seafood, 4.rice, 5.noodles, 6.pastries and cakes, 7.iced sweets & drinks. The materials for Tainan city local delicacies, for example: milk fish, oysters, Narrow-barred Spanish mackerel (scomberomorus commerson), chicken, duck…are all commonly seen in everyday life, and are also frequently consumed during daily meals. Among them, the milkfish and oysters are particularly well-known as the Tainan local specialties. Gourmet delicacies were thus created, through the application of flavoring/seasoning and heating control, topped with the ingenious utilization of simple edible materials. The development of Tainan city local delicacies emerged from the entrancing alley to temple gates, and locations where folks used to gather, such as Shih-Jin-Jioh. From the perspective of social development & transition, the development of Tainan city local delicacies was greatly influenced by city-development and renewal. They attributed to the up and downs of some famous local delicacies collecting centers, among some of them which are still well known until this day, such as: Sakariba, the Ming-Tsuh Road Night Market, while some others locations such as Tung-Men (East Gate) Circle, have faded away in people’s memories. These historical local delicacies diners/hawkers, one after another, symbolize the diet habits of Tainan City folks, and form the sub-culture of Tainan city local delicacies nowadays. In this modern period with convenient traffic, rapid information, through all kinds of promotion for local delicacies accompanied with proper exposure on the press means, the ways to run the local delicacies diners/hawkers would be totally different as well. From the perspective of modernization, the Western style fast food/light meals diners/restaurants in which the decoration, atmosphere, comfortable dining environments are emphasized, not only affect the dining choice of the Tainan citizens. They also pushed some owners of the local delicacies diners/hawkers to focus on changing the methods of managing and running their shops more than before.
    碩士
  • 建立日期: 2003
  • 格式: 121 bytes
    text/html
  • 語言: 中文
  • 識別號: http://nutnr.lib.nutn.edu.tw/handle/987654321/5168
  • 資源來源: NUTN IR

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